Tuesday, April 10, 2018

"Colours of Sound" - Simon Pilbrow with the Brent Fischer Orchestra

© -  Steven A. Cerra, copyright protected; all rights reserved.


“Music is something we all listen to everyday to enhance our lives. Even though I've been in the music industry for nearly 40 years, I am still excited to hear bold music statements by gifted composers. Simon Pilbrow is on a unique path of his own making, having created an enormous library of brilliant sonic works of art over the decades. I've had the honor of getting to know in great detail nearly 200 of his singular originals and have carefully chosen 12 that I feel represent the breadth of his accomplishments.


It has been a fantastic journey to bring these songs to life and I've enjoyed the challenge immensely. Working together with Simon, I meticulously assembled the stellar teams of professionals, both in front of and behind the microphones, that has led to the music we place before you.


From the emotional message to the caring attention to detail and enthusiasm we both encountered in all of the varied instrumental settings we hope you will delight in here, there has been a great camaraderie in all facets of production. Enjoy!”
-Brent Fischer


“Brent assembled a dream-team of exceptional musicians - all are highly accomplished players and incredible improvisers - who executed his inspiring but demanding charts brilliantly and played wonderful solos. The rhythm section of bassist Chuck Berghofer and drummer Ray Brinker was pivotal because of their great versatility and experience. Brent's enthusiasm has been unwavering, and it has been a great honour to collaborate with him and be surrounded by such extraordinary players.”
- Simon Pilbrow


“It”It’s wonderful to hear people playing my tunes and bringing the music to life,” Pilbrow says. “These musicians lovingly get into the music and play with heart and soul — and great technical capacity. These tunes have gestated for a long time, so finally recording them was kind of like birthing a child.”
--DL Med


The recent arrival of a review copy of Colours of Sound - Simon Pilbrow with the Brent Fischer Orchestra [Clavo Records CR 201709] brought to mind a flood of memories: some recent and some from when the world was young.


The recent ones had to do with meeting Simon, who lives with his family in Australia, for the first time at a Los Angeles Jazz Institute event and subsequently becoming ongoing internet pals with him.


Talk about first impressions. Not only was he a fan of the styles of Jazz that I favor but Simon was also a musician; a first rate pianist and now, thanks to a sampling of his writing ability on the new CD, a composer, too, of some distinction.


The older memories that the disc’s arrival rekindled had to do with the many fun times I had playing drums in a variety of rehearsal bands and/or studio recording sessions over the years.


And there were a lot of them because I usually jumped at the chance to hear new music and meet the challenge of performing it well [not always an easy thing to do depending on whether the person doing the writing knew what they were doing].


In this context, the best of all possible worlds came about when the other musicians assembled were good readers or capable improvisors or both, the melodic, harmonic and rhythmic elements upon which the music was based were interesting and the new music was voiced, orchestrated and arranged in a manner that made the music flow.


Good musicians playing bad or boring music makes for a long afternoon. On the other hand, when interesting stuff is on the music stand, my how the time does fly when you are having fun.


Enter pianist/composer Simon Pilbrow, arranger Brent Fischer and a host of Los Angeles’ finest studio musicians and their sterling interpretations of the 12 original compositions that make up Colours of Sound.


Talk about having a ball! The energy and enthusiasm that comes through the music on this recording is almost palpable. Simon’s compositions are uniquely different which makes them interesting to perform and Brent heightens the drama - and the fun - with well-structured arrangements that enrich the themes and embellishes their texture or sonority.


It’s not often that the listener is provided with an explanation of how the tunes on a recording evolve or how they are structured. This is mainly due to the fact that the folks writing the insert notes are usually not musicians.


But that’s not the case with Colours of Sound as Simon goes to great pains to expand our understanding of the music on this CD beginning with this narrative about his association with Brent Fischer that came in a correspondence from Simon to the editorial staff at JazzProfiles.


It is a description of the long road it took to bring this project to fruition and it underscores the need to offer - “Full credit to Brent Fischer!” - for making Colours of Sound a reality.


“Brent Fischer was absolutely pivotal in ... [the making of this recording]. He suggested the idea about 6 years ago., I had initially written to the Clare Fischer website indicating my many years’ appreciation for Clare Fischer and his music, that i was a part time musician but full time medico. During subsequent correspondence he naturally asked whether I wrote music also, and I indicated yes but had never formally recorded any of my tunes. I mentioned that about 7 or 8 tunes were held in the Gerry Mulligan Collection at the Library Of Congress


(I had given them to Gerry in early 1989 on his visit to Australia - but was only contacted by LOC to be informed of this in 2008 - I was obviously chuffed to know that Gerry had liked the tunes - they were in a folder marked “Some Good Tunes by an Australian - and will remain in this permanent collection - catalogued online - and the link I can provide if you are interested).


Although I had written a lot of tunes before and since that time, I had performed less than 30 of them ever on gigs, so the vast majority remain/ed unplayed, let alone recorded. Brent had stated in about 2011 that I might like to have a group of top US players play the tunes. Wow! So this is where the journey began. I learned how to use Sibelius music writing software, gradually put all my handwritten lead sheets onto computer, also worked on mini arrangements so they could listened in playback form. The first batch of these Brent heard back in 2013, and seemed impressed enough to keep on with the idea of ultimately recording a handful of them.


I worked on this further, and in the meantime through contact with him ( Donna Fischer, Clare’s widow, and Gary Foster independently and the late Mundell Lowe - whom I had originally met in Australia in 1987) we made some trips to LA to meet our friends and musicians, attend rehearsals of the CF Big Band at the Fischer home (where we met many great players including Carl and Scott), then two more trips to attend LAJI festivals as well as our growing musical contacts and friends, more general discussions about the possibility of the recording, how it might take shape, budget etc. I continued to put time into getting more of my tunes onto Sibelius, and then when I had tidied up a total of 180 or so tunes (and there are many more), and expanded their “mini-arrangements” on Sibelius, they were in suitable form for Brent to listen more deliberately and hand pick the ones he felt suitable for the recording.


In Feb 2017 we decided to go ahead, aiming to do the recording right after the May 2017 LA Jazz Institute festival when most of the people we had in mind would still be around town. For the next month I then worked hard on his hand-picked 12 tunes to expand and add additional ideas to give greater shape to them, and one by  one sent them on to Brent. He worked mightily to expand my skeletal arrangements into proper, full (can I say, first class) arrangements of the ensembles we had discussed and which were oriented toward the typical Fischer aggregations (e.g. BB, Clarinet choir, with strings, etc) to bring out a variety of textures and I believe showcase the al-roundedness of Brent’s arranging skills. He added a great deal of detail, imagination, clever instrumentation, compositional elements like fugal/counterpoint sections, interludes, lots of gems that I continue to discover on hearing it all - all the while brilliantly preserving the character and mood of each tune. We discussed particular personnel we wanted to be featured on specific tunes. e.g. Ron Stout on Remembering Woody Shaw. Brent’s role in arranging my tunes was paramount and done extremely well.


On top of this Brent was essential and pivotal in organising and producing the whole thing - logistics, contracting and negotiating with musicians, organising the studio, union contracts, conducting the sessions, as well as playing bass, the whole production. … I was more in a sideman role on my recording - and rightly so. The success of the project depended almost entirely on Brent and the brilliance of these musicians that we all admire and I am very grateful to be amongst these giants. I could not have pulled this off myself - I know my limitations….”


Simon also offered these detailed annotations for each of the twelve original compositions on the album which will help you get “inside” the process that led to their creation and development:


Australia


This cheerful tune from 2014 is loosely based on "Rhythm Changes", and the A-section has a completely pentatonic melody, although I discovered this only after I wrote it! It features the remarkable trumpeter Carl Saunders, young tenor titan Brian Clancy, and masterful trombonist Scott Whitfield.


A New Beginning


Over many years, I have written a number of waltzes for my wife, Jean. They are each subtitled "Waltz For Jean" and this turns out to be the very first one that I wrote for her in early 1989, shortly before we became engaged. It features Alex Budman's affable interpretation and sparkling solo on soprano sax, and a splendid solo from guest guitarist Larry Koonse.


Studio City


Coming to LA several times in recent years has been inspirational on many levels, not the least of which has been the opportunity spend time at the Fischer home, and absorb some of the rich musical ambience. It has been a pleasure to step inside this hub of musical creativity - to listen to Clare Fischer Big Band rehearsals, to explore Clare's sheet music archive, play on his piano, and observe Brent at work. "Studio City", a bright, up-tempo Latin tune inspired by our LA visits, was written in 2015. It is a "Thank-you" to the Fischers - Brent and Clare's wife Donna, for their warm welcome and kind hospitality. If there is some subliminal Fischer influence in this piece, I would be proud to admit it. Brent's lively arrangement features a gregarious Alex Budman alto sax solo and Brent's luminescent marimba solo.


Remembering Woody Shaw


I have long admired the great Woody Shaw, for his trailblazing trumpet playing and for his outstanding compositions. I met him in 1981 when he played in Melbourne, and he was very friendly. I was deeply saddened to learn of his death in 1989, and wrote this tune soon afterward, reviving it a few years ago and giving it some renovations. When I analyze it now, it has a certain logic to its form: the melody is in three sections with the "A" section phrase being a statement, the "B" a question, and the musical tension resolving in the "C" answer. Bob Sheppard opens the melody on soprano sax, and later joins Whitfield in vigorous solo exchanges. The marvelous trumpet solo is from Ron Stout.


Autumn Breeze


I have long enjoyed the compositions of Brazilian artist, Antonio Carlos Jobim and I would readily admit his influence. I wrote this particular Bossa Nova tune in 2008, and the melody is based around a simple motif that wanders away from its home key centre and works its way back again. It was conceived to be a gentle, relaxed kind of tune, and features Alex's sensitive alto flute playing, Larry Koonse's sympathetic guitar accompaniment and Brent's exquisite string harmonies.


Fast Fingers


This is a lively bebop tune I wrote in 2010. The main section came to me while at the piano, noodling around in triple octaves. The bridge is a more serpentine melody with a repeating, diminished scale phrase. Pianists noted for double- or triple-octave lines included Phineas Newborn, Oscar Peterson and Roland Hanna, but this tune was inspired by Benny Green who has pushed the possibilities even further! This mighty arrangement features a visceral alto sax solo from Sheppard, blistering trumpet from Mike Stever, virtuoso clarinet from guest Ken Peplowski, peppery trombone from Bob McChesney, an exuberant, layered solo free-for all, before piano trades with brilliant drummer Ray Brinker.


A Fischer's Line


Dedicated to the memory of Clare Fischer, and written in 2012,1 originally conceived this for clarinets in four-part harmony. Brent expanded it for a five-part clarinet choir with powerful vamping solos from Scott's trombone and Alex's soprano sax and clarinet later. It was a treat to have Gene Cipriano on bass clarinet, at 89, purportedly the most recorded saxophone player in history!


Surprise


This is a happy tune that I wrote in 1990, and was another of those tunes that came to me as I sat down at the piano. The "Surprise" title was partly because the tune came out of nowhere, partly because of the abrupt chord change in the second bar of the melody, and also because my wife happened to enter the room at that very moment! Solo features include the muscular tenor of Bob Sheppard, the effervescent bebop trumpet of Bobby Shew, and the breathtaking, leaping trombone lines of Andy Martin. Brent composed a beautiful chorale opening for the tune, which slowly  accelerates into the main tempo - his father Clare would have loved it - and reappears later before the final melody.


Joyful


This 2005 piece came to me while in church, and it has a "straight-8's" rhythmic feel. Brent told me that it reminded him of some of Vince Guaraldi's composing for "Peanuts"! On the day of the recording, Brent wrote a fabulous 16-bar chord sequence as an interlude at the conclusion of each solo, and presented it to us moments before recording it, which we ran through and incorporated. Alex's alto flute and Brent's vibraphone blend nicely on the melody.


Try For Ages


Written in 2011, the title is an anagram of Gary Foster, our good friend, first-class reed player and a fifty-year musical associate of Clare Fischer. The A-section is loosely based on a 12-bar blues structure, but with a twist, as the frame shifts between keys a minor third apart. The anagram came into my head while I was in our yard doing some bricklaying, which helped to cement it in my mind. Brent has arranged it for clarinet choir and it features excellent solos and interplay between Alex on bass clarinet and guest Ken Peplowski on clarinet.


September


Written for my wife Jean in September 2014, this is a Latin tune in 5. When I wrote it, I envisaged a string ensemble backing, and Brent has woven intricate five-part string parts behind the melody. Carl Saunders takes the melody and plays the warm flugelhorn solo.


Blue Six


This bebop blues tune was written in early 1981, in memory of much loved trumpet great, Blue Mitchell (1930-79). Blue was a distinguished alumnus of the Horace Silver band, as was our guest trumpeter, Bobby Shew, decades later. While most blues tunes are organized into three 4-bar sections, this one unusually has two similar 6-bar sections. Brent arranged this for nonet, featuring commanding solos by Bob Sheppard and Bobby Shew.
-Simon Pilbrow


As regards the totality of the music that’s on this recording, look at it this way: how often does someone come to town [from Australia] bringing with him a portfolio of brilliant new music that’s serves to peak the creative juices of Brent Fischer, one of the best young arrangers in Los Angeles, such that he orchestrates this collection of 12 original melodies  -four of them for big band, two for clarinet choir, two for a nonet, two with strings and two for quintet, with particular soloists and section players in mind - and then assembles a collection of the top studio players in town including bringing along guest artists of the caliber of Ken Peplowski, Bobby Shew and Larry Koonse to record it?


Given how rare this combination of people and events is, you owe to yourself to experience the music on Colours of Sound which is available through his website at  www.simonpilbrow.com. Amazon also offers it both as a CD and as an Mp3 download.


Here’s the opening track as a sample:



Monday, April 9, 2018

Nat Hentoff Interview by Monk Rowe

Chronicle Books - Blue Note: The Album Cover Art

© -Steven Cerra, copyright protected; all rights reserved.


"They were sure that with these new
artists they were introducing, so many of them
were leaders for the first time, so
maybe the public in Harlem knew about them,
but across the country they didn't . . .
and they felt it was very important to put these
mens' photos as prominently as
possible on the covers and they got a lot of flak
from distributors across the country
who felt a pretty girl would have been better."
- RUTH LION

"I would say that ninety per cent of
Frank's photos were taken at the recording sessions.
I got the pictures from Frank and I
integrated them within the design of the moment. … Frank always hated it when I cropped one of his artists through the forehead.”
- REID MILES

"Frank tried to get the artist's real expression . . . the way he stood. Reid was more avant-garde and chic but the two together worked beautifully."
- ALFRED LION


“Gosh this is different!... that’s Blue Note … that’s what we want.”
- ALFRED LION

"It didn't mean you had to have full colour —
two colours didn't hurt that product at all.
The few full colour covers I did were not as
strong as the ones with black and white and red."
-REID MILES


“Those covers look as fresh today as they did twenty years ago ….”
- ALFRED LION


"Fifty bucks an album . . . they loved it, thought it was modern, they thought it went with the music . . . one or two colours to work with at that time and some outrageous graphics!" 
- REID MILES


Jackie’s Bag ...Frank hated that. It had no photograph.”
-REID MILES


"That Blue Note era would never have happened in the context of a large company . . . it was a personalized, individual, approach."
- RUDY VAN GELDER


In its heyday, the Blue Note record company was the most successful and influential of all the classic jazz record companies.


Blue Note: The Album Cover Art provides a comprehensive, album-sized collection of some of the best Blue Note album covers ever designed.


Opening with a concise history of the Blue Note record company, the book features the cover art of Reid Miles, who designed almost 500 record sleeves for Blue Note over a fifteen-year period.  Reid's canon of work was so individual that his covers were as evocative of the jazz scene as the trumpet timbre of Miles Davis or the plaintive melodies of Billie Holiday.


The covers also promoted a way of stylistic thinking, influencing many of today's trends in graphic art with their pioneering use of typography. And by presenting sophisticated images of fashion and personal flair that mirrored the taste and integrity of the records themselves, the Blue Note label embodied one word: style. It advocated a sense of casual confidence that is given new expression here in Blue Note: The Album Cover Art.


The records shown here continue to enjoy a tremendous following among jazz enthusiasts. The book's impressive array of artists and performers will make it an indispensable collection of memorabilia for both jazz and design buff alike.


FOREWORD:  HORACE SILVER  (Blue Note Recording Star 1952-1979) and at the time of this writing in 1990, in charge of Silveto Productions / Emerald Records.


"Blue Note Records were very meticulous in every aspect of their production: they used the best vinyl, they paid for rehearsals and when I asked to be in on the other parts of my album Alfred Lion (the label's founder) gave me every opportunity. A lot of musicians in those days worked very hard to make good music and once the music was done, they let Alfred Lion go with the rest of it.


One day I went to Alfred and said, I want to sit down with you and look at the pictures you want to use and pick them together and check the sleeve notes before you print them. He agreed to that, and so I had input over a lot of things the other guys didn't bother with.


I learnt a lot from that, and what I learnt about making a record I learnt from Alfred Lion. I don't have a favourite cover of mine . . . but thinking back now you know, I kinda like the Tokyo Blues cover!"


THE HISTORY OF BLUE NOTE RECORDS - Compiled by Felix Cromey


1925: Alfred Lion, aged sixteen, experiences Sam Woodyard and his Chocolate   Dandies in concert and is profoundly affected by the wonderful music.


1930: Lion makes his first trip to the United States, purchasing over 300 records unavailable in his native Germany.


1938: Lion emigrates to the US, escaping Nazism and embracing Hot Jazz. Attends the legendary Spirituals to Swing concert  and is transfixed by boogie-woogie pianists  Albert Ammons and Meade Lux Lewis.


1939: Ammons and Lewis are recorded by Lion at an after-hours   session. The  results are pressed up into fifty twelve-inch discs which soon sell  out. The first  brochure  is produced  detailing the  label's  intent.  Sidney Bechet records
Summertime for Blue Note giving the label a 'hit'.


1941: Francis Wolff, Alfred Lion's associate, joins  him  from Germany.


1942: Blue Note suspends production for the duration of the war. Lion is drafted into US Army.


1943: The label resumes activities, moving to 767 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY, and during the next four years records small swingtets (comprising seven or eight players).


1948: By this time Blue Note had absorbed the stylistic changes of Bop and was recording the new talents, such as Thelonious Monk, Bud Powell and Fats Navarro.


1951: The year that Blue Note moved from 78s to the ten-inch format, introducing as it did the need for cover art. Paul Bacon,Gil Melle and John Hermansader are the early cover designers.


1953: Gil Melle introduces Lion to Rudy Van Gelder, a recording engineer working from home in Hackensack, New Jersey. It was Van Gelder's ears that helped mould what became known as the 'Blue Note   sound'. His attention to details, such as   the audibility of the hi-hat cymbal, gave the records their definition and dimensional warmth.


1954: The Jazz Messengers are born (including Horace Silver and Art Blakey) heralding a new era of soulful, swinging and inventive jazz.


1956: Reid Miles begins working with Lion and Wolff as Blue Note's  graphic  designer. Soon-to-become legendary organist Jimmy Smith  is signed to the label, completing the cast, as Michael Cuscuna described it, with Lion, Wolff, Blakey, Silver, Van Gelder and Reid Miles.


1958: Fledgling 'Star', Andy Warhol, draws a reclining woman motif for the covers of Kenny Burrell's Blue Lights Volumes 1 and 2.


1959: Blue Note, with new A&R man Ike Quebec, move recordings to Van Gelder's new studio at Englewood Cliffs, NJ.


1963: Ike Quebec succeeded by Duke Pearson.


1964: Blue Note have two hit albums in the grooving Song For My Father by Horace Silver and The Sidewinder by Lee Morgan.


1965:  The recording  giant Liberty makes Blue Note chiefs Alfred Lion and Francis Wolff an offer to sell out. The two were becoming exhausted by their diligence to the label and accepted the offer.


1967: Alfred Lion quits Blue Note due to health problems. The label no longer has Reid Miles as graphic designer and the visual changes become disturbingly obvious.


1971: Francis Wolff dies. The label moves towards fusion and continues to have hits.


1975: A re-issue programme continues the tradition of Blue Note's heyday, with classic albums made available again. This particular programme survives until 1981.


1985: Blue Note is fully revived by Bruce Lundvall and Michael Cuscuna, at Capitol Records, with a comprehensive re-issue catalogue of old classics and previously unheard gems. New artists are signed, as well as new albums from old faces such as McCoy Tyner. The label celebrates with a party at the Town Hall, New York and the whole jamboree is committed to vinyl and video.


1990: Blue Note is afforded space in many surveys of Twentieth Century music, outlining its indelible importance.


A NEW PERSPECTIVE SLEEVE NOTES FOR REID MILES - Felix Cromey


“Reid Miles designed almost 500 Blue Note record sleeves during a period of some fifteen years: a canon of work so individually styled, that a Reid Miles sleeve was as recognizable as the trumpet timbre of Miles Davis or the plaintive phrasing of Billie Holiday.


As Blue Note embraced the musical changes of its recording artists, so Reid Miles caught the slipstream creating sleeves that transcended the mugshots and mysticism of other genres' sleeves.


Whether cropping the photographs (taken by label boss Francis Wolff) to minimal proportions or finding a funky typeface, Reid Miles made the cover sound like it knew what lay in store for the listener: an abstract design hinting at innovations, cool strides for cool notes, the symbolic implications of typeface and tones.


Though commercial artists such as Harold Feinstein and Andy Warhol were commissioned by Blue Note, it wasn't until Reid Miles took over as the in-house designer that the label could boast of a visual identity to match the 'Blue Note sound' created by Rudy Van Gelder and Alfred Lion. Though Miles considered the Warhol sleeves for Kenny Burrell's records to be wonderful, especially in their graphic simplicity, his own work still gives him a sense of tremendous pride. As with any innovator, Reid Miles could be found ahead of the pack; stylistic changes made in his work consistently re-invented themselves to prevent any sense of deja vu.


In 1958 the sleeve for Peckin' Time by Hank Mobley showed the album's acetate protective sleeve, handles and fortified corners clearly visible, with the main session details printed on the outside. In 1959 this was stripped down to a card folder for Jackie's Bag by Jackie McLean, tied in the centre by a coloured thong, with the session details printed on a label. A visual pun appears: Art Taylor is listed as Art Sailor but this is poorly concealed by a series of typed Xs. Miles considers this sleeve to be 'an incredible concept for the time'. The rakish angle of the stamp bearing the album's title combined with the humour create an informality that would only re-occur in the 'Sgt. Pepper' period.


As the label moved into the Sixties, Miles found the inspiration for what he considers his best work for Blue Note. The changes in the consumer world brought about an era of design classics, amongst them the E-Type Jaguar sports car. With its reptilian headlights and elongated, curvaceous wings it provided the perfect foil to frame the relaxed features of Donald Byrd. The album was titled A New Perspective which was triumphantly reiterated by the foreshortening effect of Miles' camera position. The fine lines combine to give a smoothness redolent of skin, not steel.


Miles' needle, despite this success, did not stick in this stylistic groove. In 1964 he produced the ultimate pared down graphics of In 'n Out for Joe Henderson. The typeface swerved to suit the implications of the title whilst the artist's photograph, so often abbreviated, became the definitive punctuation mark forming, as it did, the dot of the ‘i’.


However, Miles was to return to the car motif, almost a year to the day from the highway codes of In 'n Out, for Stanley Turrentine's Joyride. Perhaps this is the culmination of the design traits most associated with Blue Note through the Fifties and Sixties. The incorporation of the musician's face, two typefaces, a car and the abstract textures in equal measures forms a startling image. The headlight cowling puts the musician in context vis-a-vis the title; however, the swirl of undergrowth and the comparative sharpness of the musician's reflection suggest the capturing of a fleeting moment suspended in this timeless composition.


Whilst Pacific Jazz had William Claxton, with his photographic eye for 'la mode' of the medalist, and Clef had the unmistakable, quirky wit of David Stone Martin's much-copied linear drawings, Blue Note had Reid Miles. Whatever was Hank Mobley's next groove was Reid Miles' next move!”


NO ROOM FOR SQUARES - Graham Marsh


“Consider the irony - the button-down shirt, which came to symbolize all that was hip about the Blue Note musicians, was originally English. Polo players at the turn of the century were seen by John Brooks, of Brooks Brothers, to fasten their collars with buttons to keep them from snapping in their faces. Brooks, no novice in such matters, took the idea back to New York and turned it into standard issue Ivy League.


This piece of sartorial history was of no concern to us, however; the mere fact that Hank Mobley, Sonny Rollins, Art Blakey and other Blue Note luminaries were photographed wearing these shirts, on their respective album covers, was endorsement enough.


Now I'm sure to those musicians it was just another clean shirt, but in the early Sixties, unless your taste was for home-grown, the importance of being imported applied to the clothes as much as to the records. While Modern Jazz was required listening, the desired look for any self-respecting hipster was American Ivy League.

Time not going to clubs, listening to records or just hanging out was reserved for tracking down those essential imported threads. Black and white photographs on the backs of record sleeves, copies of Esquire and Down Beat magazines helped bring the details into focus.


It was an obsession; a friend of mine was not a happy person until he owned a striped button-down identical to the Shirt Big John Patton wore on the sleeve of The Way I Feel. Eventually the obsession turned into some kind of eternal quest to score the correct items of clothing on the menu -narrow lapels to go, hold the double-breasted!


Let me tell you what we looked like. You can probably get an argument about it, but the generally accepted shirt was either plain blue or white Oxford cloth button-down, a close second was the tab collar. The necktie was knitted, narrow, very black and made by Rooster. A leather or webbing belt held up the trousers of a three-button, natural-shouldered, half-lined raised-seam suit, with the inevitable six-inch hooked vent. The purist suit was in tan needlecord, or olive or dark blue cotton. At the bottom of the narrow, plain-front trousers, beneath the one-and-a-half-inch cuffs, was a pair of long wing-tip brogues or beef-roll loafers with the lowest heels you've ever seen.


The Mecca for most of these ready made American clothes was the late, great store - Austins', situated on Shaftesbury Avenue in London. A visit to which severely dented the hard-earned folding.


Today, by way of compensation, with original Blue Note records fetching prices that Sotheby's would be proud of, you can still buy a Brooks Brothers' button-down shirt for about forty-eight dollars - plus the airfare to New York.”